Kalo Dungar, the black hill, is the highest point in Kutch at 462 metres — ninety-seven kilometres from Bhuj and twenty-five from Khavda, close enough to the Pakistan border that the army holds the actual summit and only military personnel go up. The Dattatreya temple below it is about four hundred years old. What most visitors stop for on the way is the magnetic hill, where a vehicle left in neutral appears to roll upwards; it is an optical illusion produced by the lie of the horizon. From the ridge you look straight out over the white of the Rann.
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