The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier (Chandigarh)

The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier (Chandigarh)

UNESCO World Heritage · 2016

Chandigarh

India lost its finest city to Partition, so Nehru asked a Swiss-French architect to invent a new one from an empty plain. What stands at the top of Chandigarh is the part Le Corbusier drew himself — four buildings and three monuments in raw concrete, with the Shivalik hills as the backdrop he chose for them.

What you're looking at

The Capitol Complex is the government quarter of Chandigarh: the Palace of Assembly, the Secretariat, the High Court, and a set of free-standing monuments — the Open Hand, the Tower of Shadows, the Geometric Hill and the Martyrs' Memorial — arranged across an open plaza in Sector 1. When Lahore went to Pakistan in 1947, Indian Punjab had no capital. An American team under Albert Mayer began the plan; after Mayer's partner Matthew Nowicki died in a plane crash, Le Corbusier was brought in, in 1951, working with his cousin Pierre Jeanneret and the British architects Maxwell Fry and Jane Drew. They laid the city out in numbered sectors, each meant to hold its own market, school and green strip. Le Corbusier kept the Capitol for himself. The High Court went up first in the mid-1950s, the Secretariat next, the Assembly in the early 1960s. He died in 1965 and never saw it finished.

Why it matters

This is not one of India's ancient wonders and it is not trying to be. It is on the World Heritage list because in 2016 UNESCO inscribed seventeen of Le Corbusier's buildings across seven countries as a single listing — the only Indian entry in it, and one of very few twentieth-century sites on the whole list. The argument was that this handful of buildings changed how the world builds. Everything here is beton brut, concrete poured raw and left with the grain of its wooden shuttering still on it; that finish, and the whole Brutalist century that followed, starts in places like this. It also matters as an act of nerve. A newly independent country with very little money chose not to copy the architecture of the empire it had just left, and built the most forward-looking city anyone was building anywhere.

Look for these

  • 01

    The parasol over the High Court

    The building has a second roof floating above it — a great concrete vault carried clear of the offices below, so the sun never touches the working rooms and the monsoon runs straight off. Underneath it, three piers painted green, yellow and red hold up the entrance. Stand back far enough to see the whole thing reflected in the pool. It is the most photographed view in Chandigarh for good reason.

  • 02

    The Assembly's cooling tower

    The great curved drum rising out of the Assembly roof is the debating chamber, and its shape came from the cooling towers of a power station. Le Corbusier lifted an industrial form nobody considered architecture and made it the crown of a parliament. The upturned concrete scoop over the entrance porch does the same trick in reverse — it looks like a wing, and it is a rain shield.

  • 03

    The enamelled door

    The main gate of the Assembly is a huge steel door covered in bright enamel panels that Le Corbusier painted himself, filled with his private symbols: the path of the sun, the spiral, and the Modulor — his proportion system based on the measurements of a human body. It is the one place on the site where the man drops the concrete mask and shows you his sketchbook.

  • 04

    The Open Hand, turning

    Twenty-six metres of sheet metal shaped like a hand, mounted on a bearing so that the wind swings it. Le Corbusier's note for it read: open to give, open to receive. He never got it built — it was finally erected in 1985, twenty years after his death — and it is now the official emblem of Chandigarh. It sits in a sunken court called the Trench of Consideration, which was meant to be a place for citizens to argue in.

  • 05

    The Tower of Shadows

    An open concrete frame with no glass in it anywhere, angled so precisely that direct sun cannot get inside at any hour of any day. It is a working experiment rather than a building, and it explains everything else on the plaza: every deep hood, brise-soleil and overhang here is doing the same job of keeping a Punjabi summer off the walls.

  • 06

    The scale of the plaza

    The space between the buildings is enormous and deliberately so — Le Corbusier composed it against the Shivalik hills, and each building is placed to sit at a certain height against that ridge. Walk it rather than drive between the buildings. The distances feel punishing at noon and completely right at five in the evening, which tells you when he meant you to come.

Before you go

  • This is a working government precinct — the Punjab and Haryana High Court sits here, and so do two legislatures — so you cannot wander in. Free guided tours run several times a day; register at the Capitol Complex Tourist Information Centre near the Open Hand and carry photo ID. Foreign visitors need their passport.
  • Go late afternoon. The concrete turns warm and the shadows that the whole design is built around finally appear. At midday it is flat, glaring and shadeless, and there is almost nowhere to escape the sun.
  • Photography is fine on the plaza but restricted around the courts and the assembly chamber; follow what the guide tells you rather than assuming.
  • Only the Capitol Complex is the World Heritage site. The rest of Le Corbusier's Chandigarh — the sector grid, the Sukhna Lake promenade, the Government Museum, the College of Art — is not inscribed but is worth the same afternoon.
  • Pair it with Nek Chand's Rock Garden, ten minutes away. One man building a secret city out of broken bangles and cycle parts, next door to the most planned city in India, is the best argument Chandigarh makes for itself.
  • Allow two hours for the tour and the walk. Wear something you can cover a lot of open ground in and bring water — there are no shops inside the complex.

Visitor guide to The Architectural Work of Le Corbusier (Chandigarh).

Visiting

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