Madhya Pradesh

Madhya Pradesh

Gwalior

Gwalior's fort sits on a sandstone plateau above the city and is one of the least visited great forts in India, which is most of its appeal. The approach past the Siddhachal Jain caves is what to slow down for: colossal Jain figures cut directly into the cliff face on the way up, the largest of them close to twenty metres. Then Man Singh Palace at the top, with turquoise tilework of ducks and elephants on the outer wall, and interiors you can walk through without a crowd. The Sas Bahu temples on the eastern edge are eleventh century and finely carved. Teli ka Mandir, unusually tall and shaped like nothing else on the site, is worth walking to. Gwalior is also a music city — the Gwalior gharana is one of the oldest surviving Hindustani classical traditions, and Tansen is buried here. The Tansen festival in December is when you would hear it properly. October to March. The fort is a long exposed climb with very little shade, so this matters more than usual.